MAKING A SHORT STORY LONG—-Long Exposure Photography
MAKING A SHORT STORY LONG….. Long Exposure Photography
All Text and Photos ©Jack Graham
Vik Iceland
Long Exposure Photography has become very popular in the last few years. Many of our popular websites and magazines are featuring long exposure photography. Many filter manufactures have also noticed this and have added Neutral Density filters to their offerings.
What is a long exposure? Most of the available DSLR cameras today will allow us to have a shutter speed set automatically up to 30 seconds. However to me a long exposure is just that, longer than I can render a subject in sharp focus. This could be ½ second or a few hours, depending on the effect I want to create.
Long exposure can be applied in several applications. We can leave our shutter open long enough for a car or bicycle to drive by and create an interesting blurry effect.
Long exposure photography is also used in nighttime photography to capture stars patterns, or trails as well as even sharp stars set in the night’s sky. When our cameras are on a good tripod and the shutter is left open for a prescribed time, very vibrant and clear photographs can be made.
Long exposures can be used in light painting, when a scene is very dark. A light source is moved over the subject to add some light and ambiance. Often we need to experiment with the amount of light applied to a subject as to not over do the amount of light shining on our subject.
Finally the most often used application of long exposures for me is with moving water and clouds. The end result is often a mysterious, yet dreamy effect and sometimes even surreal. We can at times add a sense of movement by recording the moving clouds or water across our image. In essence this is a departure from normalcy both from an artistic sense, as well as a viewing experience.
In this essay, I am going to deal with long exposures using clouds and water in landscape photography.
CREATING LONG EXPOSURES
EQUIPMENT
Bandon Beach Oregon 23 sec. exposure/ Singh Ray 10 Stop Mor-Slo Filter
First, you will need a good quality DSLR. Long exposures can introduce a bit of noise, so the better the cameras sensors, the better your images will appear. You will not see this noise or what we call “hot-pixels” on your LCD, but they will show up when viewing your images on your monitor. You will also need a camera that has a “bulb” setting. The bulb setting allows you to keep the shutter open for as long as needed, allowing you to create some quality long exposures. You will also need a remote shutter release cable or wireless shutter release. There are many of these on the market, some made by the camera manufactures and some after market. If you are going to be doing serious long exposure photography purchase a release that has a built in timer that you can set for the proper amount of time you require for each individual image. It will be a lot more accurate than counting seconds or even trying to look at your watch in dark areas.
Next, you need a good quality tripod and quality tripod head. When photographing in normal conditions, a tripod is necessary to produce sharp images. When making long exposures a sturdy tripod is even more important. Exposures can sometimes last well over a minute. The sturdier the tripod, the better the results will be. Wind, camera shake etc. will be magnified more and more as you increase the time our shutter is open. As always, I recommend never extending your center column. If you do, you now have a much-unstudied mono pod. I sometimes see folks hanging camera bags from their tripod to try to anchor the tripod. A breeze might move this “anchor” thus making the tripod vibrate. Placing a beanbag on your camera will produce better results.
La Push Beach, Olympic Peninsula, Wa / Singh-Ray 2-8 stop Vari ND filter / 9.2 Seconds
Finally you’ll need some filters to slow the shutter down. These are commonly known as neutral density filters. Essentially what these do is block out light allowing the shutter to stay open longer. These filters are rated in “stops” Each “stop” reduces the amount of light on the sensor by a factor of two. For example a 3-stop ND filter, (often referred to as a ND 8) reduces the light by 3 stops (2x2x2=8). A 4 stop ND ( or ND16) reduces the light by 4 stops ( 2x2x2x2-=16) and so on. When using a 10 stop ND filter, the light is reduced by 1024 (2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2=1024). This translates to the shutter being open for 1024 times longer than without the filter.
Many filter manufactures make these filters and I have tried most of them. These filters are not easily produced. They must be made of high quality photographic glass, not resin. Good quality filters take some time to produce. Unless a manufacturer has an assembly line each filter is almost hand made. The rate of dye that is added to the filter depends on how hard or soft the graduation is.. Quality manufactures try to eliminate color shift as much as possible. This process is quite extensive. High quality filters are also quite expensive, but considering the manufacturing process, they are really priced very fair.
I use two ND filters. I use the Singh-Ray 10 stop Mor-Slor filter and the Singh-Ray Vari-ND filter. Singh-Ray also produces a 5-stop Mor-Slo filter.
The 10 stop filter is a screw in 10 stop filter available from Singh-Ray (www.singh-ray.com ) in many thread sizes. The Vari-ND filter is also a screw in filter but using this filter you can vary the amount of stops from 2-8 stops ( Note: to stack Mor-Slo with Vari-ND, at least one filter has to be standard mount with front threads — two thin-mount filters will not stack).This filter is available currently in 77mm & 82mm sizes. You can view how the Vari-ND works HERE
TECHNIQUE
Oceanside Pier, California 86 Second exposure
Again, remember this essay is about long exposures in landscape photography. Techniques for night photography, light painting and other artistic uses of long exposures do require different techniques than that of landscape photography.
Like any other composition, composing your image, choosing your subject matter and assessing the light is mandatory. Essentially, you are making the same image without the long exposure effect, but adding this effect to create the desired result.
Assuming you have chosen a good subject, with good light and one that has some moving water, clouds, other aspects or all of the above, I’ll discuss how I go about making long exposures.
After setting up my tripod and camera I go through all the things I do for normal photography. I then check the light and properly meter the subject without using any filters. Having a filter on before focusing will not allow you to see a thing. It is just too dark due to the denseness of the filters. After this here is my procedure.
1) I compose, determine the aperture I want and focus the image in the proper manner (if you auto focus without the filter switch to manual)
2) I determine the shutter speed based in ISO and Aperture without the filter on.
3) I carefully screw in my filter of choice, either the 10 stop Mor-Slo or the Vari ND.
4) I double-check to make sure the screen that closes over my viewfinder is closed. This insures proper metering and prevents light from entering the camera while the shutter is open. This is very important.
5) I now set my shutter speed to the “bulb” setting allowing my shutter release cable or remote timer to control the shutter speed.
6) I determine how long I need my shutter to be open based on the shutter speed determined without the filter. This math can get quite complicated. I have developed a timetable, based on the math involved. NOTE: If your shutter speed is longer or shorter than desired, you can change the shutter speed simply by increasing or decreasing the ISO. Remember that digital noise increases with higher ISO’s as well as long exposures!
|
Normal Exposure |
ND 3 stops |
ND 6 stops |
ND 10 stops |
|
with no filter |
|||
|
1/500 |
1/60 |
1/8 |
2 |
|
1/250 |
1/30 |
1/4 |
4 |
|
1/125 |
1/15 |
1/2 |
8 |
|
1/60 |
1/8 |
1 |
15 |
|
1/30 |
1/4 |
2 |
30 |
|
1/15 |
1/2 |
4 |
60 (1 minute) |
|
1/8 |
1 |
8 |
120 ( 2 minutes) |
|
1/4 |
2 |
15 |
240 (4minuts) |
|
1/2 |
4 |
30 |
480 (8minutes) |
|
1 |
8 |
60 (1 minute) | 900 (15 minutes) |
|
2 |
15 |
120 ( 2 minutes) | 1800 (30 minutes) |
|
4 |
30 |
240 (4minuts) | 3600(60minutes) |
|
8 |
60 (1 minute) | 480 (8minutes) | 7200( 2 hours) |
|
15 |
90 (1.5 minutes) | 900 (15 minutes) | 14400(4Hours) |
|
30 |
120 ( 2 minutes) | 1800 (30 minutes) | 28000 (8 hours) |
| Exposure time in Seconds | Important: Take 1st reading with NO filter |
7) I set my remote cable release to the desired time based on the shutter speed with no filter attached.
8) Assuming your light conditions didn’t change…..Make the image.
NOTE: THERE IS A GREAT FREE APP that I use on my I phone— its called LONGTIME EXPOSURES. This one is free… there are other that are not. This one works great!
FINAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Vik Iceland / 71 Second Exposure
There are a few variables that you need to consider when making long exposures.
1) When making long exposures you’ll need to slow down even more than normal to make sure your settings are correct. Creating a concept for an image when making long exposures is very important. Soon you’ll learn to visualize the final outcome.
2) After you make the image do not use your LCD to evaluate anything other than our histogram.
3) Experiment; change the ISO thus making the shutter longer or shorter. When you get back to your monitor then choose the effect you like.
4) I always recommend shooting RAW files.
ONE LAST THOUGHT
This essay is not an advertisement. It is simply my endorsement. I have experimented with filters from other manufactures. I have found without question the Singh-Ray filters to be of the highest quality without any measurable color shift. Color shift is the biggest problem in filters, especially ND filters. There is no easy cheap way to make a good quality ND. Singh Ray filters are highly recommended.
I recently made two images. One was using the Singh-Ray 10stop Mor-Slo filter, the other with their main competitor in a similar price range. The results speak for themselves. There is absolutely no color shift with the Singh-Ray, but a large one with their competitor. These images were taken about 2-3 minutes apart. Same light, same camera settings 14 sec / F16 -1/3 comp ISO 200Consider this when purchasing filters.
Singh-Ray Mor Slo 10 top filter
The “Competitor”
Singh-Ray Filters
2721 SE Highway 31, Arcadia, FL 34266-7974 USA
For fastest response, telephone Singh-Ray at 800-486-5501 or 863-993-4100
during business hours, 9am to 5pm Eastern US time, Monday-Friday
Sunset on the Southern Iceland Coast
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
ALSO VISIT: www.ultimateiceland.com
SEE SPECIAL LAST MINUTE INFORMATION ON WORKSHOPS BELOW!
IMPORTANT WORKSHOP INFORMATION
ALSO VISIT: www.ultimateiceland.com
Due to a cancellation, I have one opening for my June workshop in the Oregon Coast. You can access information on this workshop HERE
There are two spots open for the Workshop I conduct for the Pacific Northwest Art School on Whidbey Island, in the Puget Sound neat Seattle in June as well. Information is found HERE. Also there is a spot open for the workshop in the Columbia River Gorge in about 2 weeks. Information found HERE
In addition our July 4-14, 2013 Ultimate Iceland Workshop is almost full. This is a trip of a lifetime for any photographer. Please consider joining us!
ULTIMATE ICELAND “1” July 2013
You can see some images made my last year’s attendees here http://jackgraham.photoshelter.com/gallery/2012-ICELAND-WORKSHOP-ATTENDEE-IMAGES/G0000dpVO0jXHKCI/
This October, will be my 19th year conducting a workshop in the Eastern Sierra. Again, I’ll be joining forces with my good friend, an amazing photographer and thinker, and co-leader Guy Tal. Please consider joining us. This is a highlight of the year! Details found HERE.
Also in October, I’ll be back in NE Ohio for our bi-annual FALL COLOR & A DAY with the AMISH PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. (Including a private Amish dinner) with my Amish friends on their farm in Sugarcreek Ohio. I’ll be teaming up with my good friend, world-class photographer and teacher Bill Fortney (www.billfortney.com) for a workshop you will not want to miss!
I’ll be in Utah October 2013 for a late October workshop in the red rock country in and around Zion NP
LIMITED SEATS and filling fast:
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK/ NOVEMBER 2013 Jack Graham & Bill Fortney. Do NOT miss this one!
ALSO VISIT: www.ultimateiceland.com
Join me on the “The Light of Ireland” photo workshop from April 30-May 10, 2014
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE — LEARN to THINK — LEARN to CREATE
Jack Graham Photography, in conjunction with Strabo Photo Tour Collection, presents “The Light of Ireland” photo workshop from April 30-May 10, 2014.
Spend 10 days on a photographic and cultural adventure visiting the unspoiled villages, rugged ancient abbeys, broad peat lowlands, and the dramatic coastline of Western Ireland.
Our trip focuses on the quiet side of Ireland – County Mayo – with wonderful hidden places to explore. There are spectacular monastic and megalithic ruins, Irish towns with tree-lined canals and colorful shops, the rolling hills and stonewalls of the countryside, and cliffs falling off to the sea. A relaxed and flexible itinerary makes the most of the many photographic possibilities this part of Ireland has to offer.
The majority of our tour will be based out of one location, Hillcrest House, renovated for the sole purpose of accommodating photography groups. Its homelike quality adds to the relaxed atmosphere of the trip. Enjoy traditional Irish breakfasts and dinners during your stay. Lunch will be at various restaurants and pubs, or possibly a picnic during an excursion in the field.
Transportation is provided in a roomy tour van, large enough for both the group and equipment.
Throughout your tour, I will provide explanations on photographic technique, composition, learning to see and developing your vision, as well as group discussions and critiques which allow everyone to participate and work at his or her own speed.
Together with Strabo Photo Tour and local Irish guide Olcan Masterson you’ll encounter the spirit and soul of Ireland, as few visitors will ever experience it. We will visit places you could never locate on your own — tiny villages, hidden beaches, castles, and ancient abbeys. These natural landscapes, along with the people, render this Isle a place of inspirational beauty.
For more information or to register contact the Strabo Photo Tour Collection: 607-756-8676 or visit www.phototc.com.
Jack Graham Photography News—–Workshop news…Ireland, Iceland , more…2014 additions
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
2014 Workshop schedule REGISTRATION FORM 2014v1
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
Greetings,
There is a lot of information in this entry. Lots of good news!!! I am currently in the desert southwest where I just completed my second of four workshops. I’ll be heading up to the four corners/Navajo area next Monday. We’ll be in Page AZ for the slot canyons and nearby Colorado Plateau, then over to Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelley. I’ve included some new photos here as well.
NEW & NOTEWORTHY
I am pleased to announce that I have a featured article entitled “A Sense of Place” published in Landscape Photography Magazine. You can access it HERE. This is perhaps the best magazine around for information
For those of you in Southern California…I’ll be doing presentation tomorrow night April 4, for the Inland Empire Camera Club monthly meeting in Temecula California. (Location Rancho California Water District
42135 Winchester Rd, Temecula) at 7pm.
I will also be spending some time this Saturday morning April 6 at the METALOGRAPHY GALLERY in Temecula, CA. I have prints are there on display. For those of you in the LA-San Diego area…come on by and say hello
If you haven’t visited our ULTIMATE ICELAND WEBSITE lately, please do. It’s still somewhat of a work in progress but it’s been revised and reorganized. There are lots of new images up along with new and updated information.
Coming soon!
Once I get back to my home and office in Oregon later this month, I’ll be putting together my new podcast…” We Talk Photo” Though not active yet, look for this to get going sometime in May or June
I’ll be in NIK SOFTWARES new studios at Google’s headquarters in mid-May to record a sequel to my LAST WEBINAR.. (can you believe this has been see by 8490 folks as of today?)…I’ll get a link up when it’s completed. Remember, you save 15% when using this code JGRAHAM when ordering
My new Gura Gear “Bataflae” Camera Bag
I recently discovered the very best camera bags available anywhere. While in Jacksonville at the NANPA summit last month, I spent time with my good friend Greg Schern, the president of Gura Gear. I was chatting with Art Wolfe at their booth when I discovered that Art also uses their products. Greg gave me the complete details on their products, their company philosophy and direction. I was sold. These folks really get it. Their bags are extremely durable, weather resistant and functional. You owe it to yourself to check out their lineup of products. You can also save 5% when ordering online using this code: JGRAHAM www.guragear.com … if it’s good enough for Art Wolfe, It’s good enough for me!
WORKSHOP INFORMATION
WHIDBEY ISLAND, WA –June 20-23 3 ½ days $495…..There is practically no place I would rather be than on Whidbey Island in June. We’ll spend lots of time in the field photographing the tranquil harbors, villages, farms and coastline of this beautiful location, just a 15 minute ferry north of Seattle. We will also do some image reviews and have interesting discussions and presentation in the studio of the Pacific Northwest Art School in Coupeville. Complete details can be found here: You can register by calling them at 360-678-3396 or at the website of the Pacific Northwest Art School. …. And while you are there check out the workshop in Oregon’s Columbia River Gorge in June, again for the PNWAS.
Image # 2
IRELAND 2014; Next May (April30-May 10) I’ll be leading a workshop in western Ireland. I’ll be doing this in conjunction with Strabo Tours, These folks really run some great events and I am proud to be doing a workshop for them. We’ll be in scenic and pastoral western Ireland for 10 days of unforgettable photography. Please CHECK OUT THE DETAILS HERE and consider joining me.
ICELAND: Our “Ultimate Iceland Photography Workshop is almost full..(July 4-14, 2013) ULTIMATE ICELAND “1” July 2013 Please consider coming along on this once in a lifetime journey to the land of fire and ice!….You can see some images made my last year’s attendees here
Don’t forget our 2 Winter Iceland Workshops in 2014 as well. This last January’s workshop was amazing. Getting into the Ice cave (though quite safe) was an experience of a lifetime.
I’ll be annoucing a September 2014 workshop to China very soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you can contact me now for information jack@jackgrahamphoto.com
This October, will be my 19th year conducting a workshop in the Eastern Sierra. Again, I’ll be joining forces with my good friend, an amazing photographer and thinker, and co-leader Guy Tal. Please consider joining us. This is a highlight of the year! Details found HERE. There are limited spaces left on this workshop.
Blue Hen Falls, Cuyahoga National Park
Also in October, I’ll be back in NE Ohio for our bi-annual FALL COLOR & A DAY with the AMISH PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. (Including a private Amish dinner) with my Amish friends on their farm in Sugarcreek Ohio. I’ll be teaming up with my good friend, world class photographer and teacher Bill Fortney (www.billfortney.com) for a workshop you will not want to miss!
Speaking of Bill…… I am happy to announce that Bill and I are teaming up in 2014 as well. Bill will join me in Oregon in June 2014 to conduct my annual COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE WORKSHOP…DETAILS CAN BE FOUND HERE
I’ll be in Utah October 2013 for a late October workshop in the red rock country in and around Zion NP
I have 2 openings for Olympic National Park in May and one seat for the Palouse in June , My Oregon Coast workshop in June is sold out, however there is 1 spot left for the workshop on the Oregon Coast in August.
Whidbey Island Photography Workshop—JUNE 2013
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
_____________________________________________________________________
Whidbey Island, Washington…..Photography Workshop …. June 20-23 2013… $485.00
Jack Graham Photography in conjunction with the Pacific Northwest Art School
Join me on beautiful Whidbey Island this June for an unforgettable photographic experience. Whidbey Island is the largest of nine islands located in Puget Sound, just north of Seattle, between the Olympic Peninsula and the mainland. The 60 mile long island is home to some of the most scenic beaches, harbors, villages and parks anywhere.
During our three day workshop we will spend lots of time in the field, photographing the landscape, flora and quaint villages but in our classroom at the Pacific Northwest Art School reviewing our work and viewing presentations designed to help develop your photographic skills.
IMAGE # 1
We will stress creating your vision and simplicity. Important components of photography such as the proper use of light, depth of field, creating perfect exposures, creating strong compositions and more will be discussed both in the field and in our classroom. We will also conduct in-depth discussions regarding techniques used in post processing and printing. We will cover every aspect you need to be aware of in order to improve your overall photography. You will also come away with some wonderful images in this most excellent venue. This workshop is for all skill levels.
You will receive a complete 60+ page workshop syllabus containing everything we discuss both in the field and classroom.
Thank you for considering our workshops!–Jack Graham
Please contact the Pacific Northwest Art School online or call 360-678-3396 to register.
BIG NEWS FROM NIK SOFTWARE
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
Nik Software, now owned by Google, is offering their complete collection now just $149 for all six plug-ins. These plug-ins works with Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom and Apple Aperture. Please enter this code JGRAHAM when ordering online and save an additional 15% .
For a demo of how you can use this software easily and effectively, please take a few minutes to view the WEBINAR I recorded for Nik Software last year(I am going to be doing a new one in May 2013)
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You can read more details on the Nik Software click HERE to go to Nik’s website.
More photography news coming soon!
a recent image fro the Arizona Desert!
Everything You Need to Know About Photographing Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons, Arizona
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
NEWS and NOTEWORTHY
I’ll be in Jacksonville Florida for the North American Nature Photography ( NANPA) Summit Feb 28-Mar 3rd. This should be a great event with some great speakers (come here my friend Guy Tal!), breakout sessions and lots of learning and networking. Details can be found HERE.
I am proud to also announce that I’ve been asked so serve on NANPA’s Board of Directors.
In addition to our (almost full) July 4-14, 2013 Ultimate Iceland Workshop, we have added a second workshop in July with a completely different itinerary. You can access this information here. Again, seats on this workshop are limited.
ULTIMATE ICELAND “1” July 2013
ULTIMATE ICELAND “2” July 2013
You can see some images made my last year’s attendees here http://jackgraham.photoshelter.com/gallery/2012-ICELAND-WORKSHOP-ATTENDEE-IMAGES/G0000dpVO0jXHKCI/
This October, will be my 19th year conducting a workshop in the Eastern Sierra. Again, I’ll be joining forces with my good friend, an amazing photographer and thinker, and co-leader Guy Tal. Please consider joining us. This is a highlight of the year!. Details found HERE.
Also in October, I’ll be back in NE Ohio for our bi-annual FALL COLOR & A DAY with the AMISH PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. (including a private Amish dinner) with my Amish friends on their farm in Sugarcreek Ohio. I’ll be teaming up with my good friend, world class photographer and teacher Bill Fortney(www.billfortney.com) for a workshop you will not want to miss! I’ll be in Utah October 2013 for a late October workshop in the red rock country in and around Zion NP
I receive many requests for the link the webinar I conducted for NIK SOFTWARE entitled, “Keeping it Simple .You can view it here: ( if you purchase any or all of the NIK Software package… enter code JGRAHAM and receive a 15% discount!!! HERE is the link to the webinar
________________________________________________________________
Everything You Need to Know about
Photographing Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons
©Jack Graham and Jack Graham Photography
Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons located in Page Arizona, are one of the many wonders of the world, as far as I am concerned. The Colorado Plateau Located here in the southwestern United States contains many deep, narrow canyons that were carved out by water over millions of years. Under proper conditions, reflected sunlight makes the canyon walls glow with amazing shades of pink, brown, orange and yellow. These canyons attract photographers from around the world. Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons are also referred to as Corkscrew Canyon.
Dealing with photographing the canyons can be challenging if you don’t know what you are doing, however learning and preparing before you go is quite easy. The canyons are both located close to one another and are on Navajo land. Proper permits and admission fees are required.
It seems that we all, myself included who visit the over photographed Slot Canyons (Lower & Upper Antelope Canyon in Page AZ) look for that quintessential image that will forever be indelibly etched in our brains. I always make attempts to get some images that are unique, and ones I have not seen in publications before.
Both Antelope canyons are uniquely different, but beautiful in their own way. Both offer some very different experiences. Being prepared for these experiences is essential for successful imagery in the canons.
What both canyons have in common
To attain interesting images in all of the many slot canyons in the American Southwest, you need to look for light reflecting off the multi-colored canyon walls. Often the sunlight is shining down directly on a wall. Look towards the opposite side of the canyon and you will usually see glowing oranges and reds. The parts of the canyon that is illuminated by reflected light will be the most dynamic. You will often find that adding saturation in post processing is not needed.
As your time in the canyon moves on, the light will constantly change and transform before your eyes. In the spring and fall, my favorite times to visit the peak times for both canyons are between 11am and 2 pm. I have photographed these canyons in every season with success.
Safety first! All slot canyons are prone to flash floods. If you are caught in a canyon during a flash flood you will most likely be unable to exit the canyon before it is too late. Floods can happen all year long but July through August, when the summer monsoons occur, is when the heaviest rainfall and thunderstorms occur. Though they weather may be clear you must be aware that rain falling miles away can drain into the canyons. Lower Antelope Canyon had a bad a flash flood that killed 11 tourists in 1997. There was little or no rain in Page, but miles away there was a deluge. These tourists ignored warnings and paid with their lives.
Upper Antelope Canyon:
Upper Antelope Canyon is shorter in length and easier to navigate. You literally walk through the canyon rather than descending down into the canyon. Because of the ease of accessibility, the Upper Antelope Canyon can be much more crowded than the Lower Antelope Canyon. You’ll notice many non-photographers walk through this canyon and depart.
The biggest difference between the two canyons is the availability of light as well as many more and large light beams or shafts of light shining down between the cracks in the sandstone walls. These beams are available from March through about mid-October.
The best time to photograph Upper Antelope Canyon is from around 11 am to 2 pm. Though the light beams last a bit longer during the summer months, I prefer the spring and fall. During the summer, this canyon is even more crowded than it is in the spring and fall.
It is necessary to use a Navajo Guide in this canyon. There are many guides available in nearby Page Az. As a photographer, make sure you ask for the longer “Photography tour” of the canyon. This costs a bit more, but will give you about 2 hours in the canyon, rather than the regular 45-minute to 1-hour tour. Most guides that cater to photographers will know the timing of individual shafts of light and precisely when they will appear. It is uncommon to be in Upper Antelope Canyon without crowds. You’ll need to cooperate with other photographers. Again, your guide should help you maneuver and work with other groups and photographers to allow you to get your image.
Most of the light beams appear and disappear quickly and will move across the canyon floor until they disappear. Since they only appear for a few minutes, you will need to be in place with your tripod and perhaps even make some exposures to make sure your settings are accurate.
Often your guide will throw sand straight up in the air allowing the light beam to reflect off the falling sand. This creates a reflective area for the light to bounce off and create some very eerie formations.
Lower Antelope Canyon
Lower Antelope Canon is located just slightly down the road and across from the Upper Antelope Canyon. The Lower Antelope Canyon is much longer and much less crowded. Though you must pay an entrance fee, there are no formal tours of this canyon. After paying the fee (ask for a photographer’s badge, you’ll get extra time in the canyon). You can explore and photograph the canyon at your own pace. There will be guides wandering around, perhaps playing a Navajo flute to answer questions and make sure that everyone is moving about in a mannerly fashion.
The first time you approach the narrow slit which you have to climb down into to get inside the canyon you may become wary of the difficulty of getting through this narrow crack. Don’t let it worry you, it gets easier, and easier to navigate one you get lower and used to maneuvering the canyon walls. There are steel ladders attached to the sandstone walls. Years ago it was common to have to climb down wooden ladders, unattached to the walls. It is much easier now. Be prepared to not be as dust free when you exit.
Like Upper Antelope canyon I have found the best time to be there is between 10:30 and 1pm.
Many areas in this canyon are very narrow especially when carrying a backpack and tripod. Though the crowds are significantly less you may still need to move your equipment to allow other to pass through. At the very end of the canyon, there is a long spiral stairway that leads back up to the surface. You can easily walk back to the parking lot from there. I usually like to walk back through the canyon, tracing my route back to the entrance.. The light will be very different when you are exiting. You can buy water at the pay station after your trek.
Must Have Equipment
A tripod and cable release is mandatory. You’ll be making some long exposures. It is impossible to make quality photographs in these canyons while hand holding your camera. Exposures of thirty seconds or longer are common due to the limited amount of light, as well as the need to use small apertures ( for depth of field) along with the need to use low ISO settings for the best image quality. If you choose to use a polarizing filter, this will increase your exposure time even further. (Using of a polarizer will diminish undesired reflections and allow the amazing colors of the canyons to come through magnificently.
Lenses
I use wide-angle lens (16-35mm range on a full frame sensor) most of the time in the canyons, I also enjoy using a medium telephoto (50-80mm range) lens to bring out details on the rock walls. You will quickly figure out that there are images all everywhere you look..
Exposing in the canyons
Exposures can be a little tricky your first time in the canyons. As always, use your histogram and LCD to evaluate your results. Today’s digital cameras are much more forgiving than those from back in the film days. There were only five stops between total overexposure and total underexposure using Fuji Velvia. We have many more tools now to tell us if we have the right exposure or not.
1) Avoid using flash. It will not only ruin other photographer’s images but create unnatural images.
2) First you need to set your ISO. By using lower ISO’s ( 100 -200) you to be able to make higher quality, large prints With today’s modern cameras, ISO’s of 400-800, or even higher are quite acceptable and allow you to attain more depth of field. Since you are using a tripod, shutter speeds are not that concerning. However different shutter speeds create different effects when photographing the sand falling through the light shafts in Upper Antelope Canyon, I always try to keep my exposure times to 30 seconds or less since longer exposures increase the digital noise
3) I like to use apertures of F11-F16 when using my wide-angle lenses. You will need to adjust your ISO, aperture and shutter speed depending on the conditions (especially the light beams as stated previously). The reality is that other than these beams and sand, there is nothing moving in the canyons, so shutter speeds of 2-10 seconds are acceptable.
4) Different exposures will render different results. I recommend that you bracket your exposures and decide which you like when you get back to your studio.
5) Avoid areas of rock that are directly lit by the sun. These areas will be a blown out. For very difficult exposures the proper use of HDR can be helpful.
Making Quality Images in the Canyons.
This subject is as important as any. We have talked about the canyons, and technique. Let’s talk about the experience and how you will come away with quality photographs.
The first time you visit these canyons, it can be overwhelming. You have seen thousands of images over the years and now you are finally there, at one of the must photograph locations on any photographers to do list, worldwide. Now, how do you make it so you come away with creative images? There is one easy way. Slow Down! I always see photographers clicking away with no real purpose. Some figure that the more images they make the better chance of getting a great one is. This is false.
You have to be careful, from a physical aspect in these canyons. You also need to be sensitive to other visitors and photographers as you are attempting to capture images for yourself. By slowing down and studying the light, foregrounds, patterns and textures you will get those images that others won’t.
Perhaps think outside the box. Though the color can be quite amazing, sometimes a black and white or monochrome image might make for a even more powerful image. We all see images from these canyons in color, few in monochrome. Why not try it
Relax, enjoy the experience and work as a photographer, not the impatient tourist.
What to Avoid and Look Out For
1) With very few exceptions do not include sky in your image. Again, avoid extreme highlights. Look for reflected light.
2) Be careful of you and your equipment. Maneuvering in these canyons can be challenging to say the least.
3) Avoid being hasty. Relax and enjoy the experience.
4) Some are also extremely narrow passages, especially in Lower Antelope Canyon. A large camera bag may, make our movement through these, in spots, narrow canyon walls difficult. Carry as little as you need.
5) Be careful to not knock your camera against the canyon walls when you are maneuvering through narrow passages. I’ve seen top of the line cameras come out of the canyons broken. That goes for lenses too!
6) If there was recent rain, some of the canyon floors can be muddy. Be prepared for that and be careful as this mud can be very slippery
7) It is important to consider dust when in the canyons. There is always lots of dust in the canyon, especially when your guide is throwing sand into the light shafts. On windy days sand can literally blow into the canyon from the surface. I suggest using some kind of wrap or even a shower cap to cover your camera when not in use. Believe me this dust can get into cameras and keeping out is sometimes tough. If at all possible never change in the canyon. There is dust in the air even if you can’t see it. You’ll start seeing dust spots on your images if you are not careful. I carry cans of compressed air to blow on my camera body when I finish my sessions in the canyons (never use this air on glass of LCD Screens!)
8) Remember, this land belongs to the Navajo. This is sacred land. Please respect the canyons in all ways.
What Else to Bring With You and Think About
1) You may also want to bring a small flashlight and a bottle of water during the summer.
2) I would bring a dust blower. Be careful removing dust off your lenses. This sand can scratch you lens easily. DO not use compressed air on your glass. Remember again to think about protecting your lenses and cameras from dust.
3) The temperature in the canyons is pretty constant in the spring, and fall. Temperatures are usually in the 60-70 degree range. Winters are colder, summers obviously hotter, but still cool compared to the heat of the summer in Page Az. Though it may be hotter on the surface, it can be a bit cool in the canyons so dress accordingly. Heavy coats are unnecessary.
4) Good hiking boots are essential.
5) You’ll be making some long exposures. That means batteries may run out. Bring extras, and make sure your batteries are fully charges before you venture into the canyon.
6) Don’t forget enough memory as well.
Enjoy your experience. You’ll never forget your time here.
The right to download, store or output any content on these websites www.jackgrahamphoto.com and www.jackgrahamsblog is granted for preview purposes only and may not be reproduced in any form .All Photographs appearing on these sites are the property of Jack Graham unless otherwise noted.
These photos are protected by U.S.Copyright laws and are not to be downloaded or reproduced in any way without the written permission of Jack Graham
By entering these sites you accept these terms. If you need permission to use a photo on these sites please call
503-625-1430 or email Jack @ Jack@jackgrahamphoto.com
Wrong is Sometimes Right…. and other considerations
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
NEWS and NOTEWORTHY
I’ll be in Jacksonville Florida for the North American Nature Photography ( NANPA) Summit Feb 28-Mar 3rd. This should be a great event with some great speakers (come here my friend Guy Tal!), breakout sessions and lots of learning and networking. Details can be found HERE.
I am proud to also announce that I’ve been asked so serve on NANPA’s Board of Directors.
I am featured in an article in Outdoor Photography Magazine ( published in the UK) this coming month called “Great Escapes—Wildflowers”—you can read it Here:
In addition to our (almost full) July 4-14, 2013 Ultimate Iceland Workshop, we have added a second workshop in July with a completely different itinerary. You can access this information here. Again, seats on this workshop are limited.
ULTIMATE ICELAND “1” July 2013
ULTIMATE ICELAND “2” July 2013
You can see some images made my last year’s attendees here http://jackgraham.photoshelter.com/gallery/2012-ICELAND-WORKSHOP-ATTENDEE-IMAGES/G0000dpVO0jXHKCI/
This October, will be my 19th year conducting a workshop in the Eastern Sierra. Again, I’ll be joining forces with my good friend, an amazing photographer and thinker, and co-leader Guy Tal. Please consider joining us. This is a highlight of the year!. Details found HERE.
Also in October, I’ll be back in NE Ohio for our bi-annual FALL COLOR & A DAY with the AMISH PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. (including a private Amish dinner) with my Amish friends on their farm in Sugarcreek Ohio. I’ll be teaming up with my good friend, world class photographer and teacher Bill Fortney(www.billfortney.com) for a workshop you will not want to miss! I’ll be in Utah October 2013 for a late October workshop in the red rock country in and around Zion NP
I receive many requests for the link the webinar I conducted for NIK SOFTWARE entitled, “Keeping it Simple .You can view it here: ( if you purchase any or all of the NIK Software package… enter code JGRAHAM and receive a 15% discount!!! HERE is the link to the webinar
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Wrong is Sometimes Right….. And other considerations.
text and images ©Jack Graham / Jack Graham Photography unless noted
There are a few traps that we photographers fall into at times that hinder our creativity. Perhaps the main trap often encountered is following rules especially when it comes to composition.
The four main rules most often considered are the rule of thirds, reading an image from left to right, avoiding having the horizon centered and finally, not putting the center of interest in the center of the image. All are valid, however if you disregard these rules and the image in the end, “works”, is not the image a valid one?
Take the famous image by Ansel Adams, “Moonrise over Hernandez” 1941. How many of these rules were broken here? Many, however, this image works and it is an extremely strong one at that.
What is important to a photography is to make your image tell a story. Make it meaningful. If it means breaking the rules is necessary, by all means consider doing just that. I see so many images in areas of immense beauty and natural wonderment that really don’t say anything about the location or tell a story. These snapshots are just that, nothing more than a post card. By just following rules, images are not guaranteed to deliver a message. Images that are made in haste are more often than not, doomed to fail. It is imperative to slow down, consider all aspects and above all strive to make a well thought out image. Knowing the basics of composition, but learning to see and think creatively as well as learning how to to deal with all of the above, is the bedrock of making good photographs. Knowing how to make a strong image sometimes requires breaking the rules.
Consulting the rules of composition before taking a photograph, is like consulting the laws of gravity before going for a walk. …Edward Weston
©Ansel Adams
Avoiding distractions
Unless you are always thinking about distractions, we don’t often see things in the image that take away from the story. In order to make the subject primary, we have to be constantly aware of the entire frame and distracting areas that affect the subject. Distractions are weaknesses in your image. Strive to eliminate any and all weakness in every image. If you need to make a crop in post processing, then do it. Experiment with different size formats for your image. Don’t be afraid to break the rules if it makes your image stronger.
One of the things that I personally dislike in an image is framing the image with another object. Many folks really love this technique. I really do not care for it. Consider the image on the left
What is wrong with this image? First, look at the distraction in the lower right hand corner. ( the small green part of a Joshua tree). Why is that even in the frame? What is the story that is being told here? Is it about the Joshua tree and where it lives? Perhaps. There is another Joshua tree in the image along with some recognizable rocks in the background trying to tell the viewer about the environment. The bigger problem here is the framing of the background….. using this Joshua tree as the frame. How does the form of this tree relate to the background? It doesn’t, and if anything it blocks the background out almost entirely. The tree is very overbearing and detracts from the story of the image. The form of the tree does not relate to the image at all. Also the image itself is cut off by the tree trunk. This is an example is that of just making a photograph without seeing in a photo-graphical way.
At times framing can be used effectively, but rarely.
As another example, please consider the image as well.
A few rules were broken here. The red barn in centered. However I don’t mind that it is in this image. The tree in the upper right is almost, but not quite a frame for the barn. The one aspect that saves this image is that the strong foreground of the blowing green grasses are pulling your eye from bottom right up to the upper left as These patterns ( right to left are repeated in the form of the tree limb on the top. The framing technique used here adds to the composition and not detract or disrupt it.
.
Slow and Slower
We have to really slow down and consider another variable when making the image. Consider how much of the subject you really can fit in your frame and will the viewer see on your photograph what you viewed in real time. If the subject is too far away, it will become irrelevant. This is a common mistake. When in the field I see other photographers taking many, many, more images than I as if it;s almost as if it’s a compulsion. I can almost tell that they are not taking the things into account they are primary to making a good photograph. Strive to tell an interesting story in every image and make an impact full statement in every image. Consider every image on its own merit. You’ll become a better photographer. Sometimes a picture in your mind is better than the one you just tried to take.
The right to download, store or output any content on these websites www.jackgrahamphoto.com and www.jackgrahamsblog is granted for preview purposes only and may not be reproduced in any form .All Photographs appearing on these sites are the property of Jack Graham unless otherwise noted.
These photos are protected by U.S.Copyright laws and are not to be downloaded or reproduced in any way without the written permission of Jack Graham
By entering these sites you accept these terms. If you need permission to use a photo on these sites please call
503-625-1430 or email Jack @ Jack@jackgrahamphoto.com
RECAP of our RECENT ULTIMATE ICELAND WINTER PHOTOGRAPHY ADVENTURE
Below is a link to a featured article on my ULTIMATE ICELAND photo blog. I recap our recent adventure to Iceland .
__________________________________________________________________________
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
NEWS and NOTEWORTHY
I’ll be in Jacksonville Florida for the North American Nature Photography ( NANPA) Summit Feb 28-Mar 3rd. This should be a great event with some great speakers (come here my friend Guy Tal!), breakout sessions and lots of learning and networking. Details can be found HERE.
Anyone else going to the NANPA SUMMIT? If so send me an email jack@jackgrahamphoto.com
I am proud to also announce that I’ve been asked so serve on NANPA’s Board of Directors.
I am featured in an article in Outdoor Photography Magazine ( published in the UK) this coming month called “Great Escapes—Wildflowers”—you can read it HERE: OP162 Great Escapes
Our July 4-14, 2013 Ultimate Iceland Workshop is almost full. We have added a second workshop in July with a completely different itinerary. You can access this information here. Again, seats on this workshop are limited.
ULTIMATE ICELAND “1” July 2013
ULTIMATE ICELAND “2” July 2013
You can see some images made my last year’s attendees here http://jackgraham.photoshelter.com/gallery/2012-ICELAND-WORKSHOP-ATTENDEE-IMAGES/G0000dpVO0jXHKCI/
This October, will be my 19th year conducting a workshop in the Eastern Sierra. Again, I’ll be joining forces with my good friend, an amazing photographer and thinker, and co-leader Guy Tal. Please consider joining us. This is a highlight of the year!. Details found HERE.
Also in October, I’ll be back in NE Ohio for our bi-annual FALL COLOR & A DAY with the AMISH PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. (including a private Amish dinner) with my Amish friends on their farm in Sugarcreek Ohio. I’ll be teaming up with my good friend, world class photographer and teacher Bill Fortney(www.billfortney.com) for a workshop you will not want to miss! I’ll be in Utah October 2013 for a late October workshop in the red rock country in and around Zion NP
I receive many requests for the link the webinar I conducted for NIK SOFTWARE entitled, “Keeping it Simple .You can view it here: ( if you purchase any or all of the NIK Software package… enter code JGRAHAM and receive a 15% discount!!! HERE is the link to the webinar
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RECAP of our recent WINTER ICELAND PHOTOGRAPHY ADVENTURE
I just returned from our ULTIMATE ICELAND, WINTER PHOTOGRAPHY ADVENTURE. A complete recap and images can be found HERE:
We had a great trip. One of the highlights was getting into photographing an ice cave. Check out the video HERE:
More coming on THIS blog later this week!
NEW NATIONAL PARK in California
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY www.jackgrahamphoto.com
LEARN to SEE LEARN to THINK LEARN to CREATE
______________________________________________________________________
2013 Workshop schedule Workshop Registration Form Workshop Overview
Workshop FAQ’S Workshop Referrals One on One Individual Workshops PODCAST
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books –available for purchase and immediate download
NEWS and NOTEWORTHY
I’ll be in Jacksonville Florida for the North American Nature Photography ( NANPA) Summit Feb 28-Mar 3rd. This should be a great event with some great speakers (come hear my friend Guy Tal!), breakout sessions and lots of learning and networking. Details can be found HERE.
I am proud to also announce that I’ve been asked to serve on NANPA’s Board of Directors.
I am featured in an article in Outdoor Photography Magazine ( published in the UK) this coming month called “Great Escapes—Wildflowers”—you can read it OP162 Great Escapes:
I’ll be leaving next Tuesday for our Ultimate Iceland™ Winter Photography Adventure starting out in Reykjavik on January 18. We will be conducting 2 such workshops in 2014. We are taking only 5 attendees on each event. There are a few spots open. Register ASAP—HERE is the information
In addition to our (almost full) July 4-14, 2013 Ultimate Iceland Workshop, we have added a second workshop in July with a completely different itinerary. You can access this information here. Again, seats on this workshop are limited.
ULTIMATE ICELAND “1” July 2013
ULTIMATE ICELAND “2” July 2013 You can see some images made my last year’s attendees here http://jackgraham.photoshelter.com/gallery/2012-ICELAND-WORKSHOP-ATTENDEE-IMAGES/G0000dpVO0jXHKCI/
Beaverpond Lundy Canyon
This October, will be my 19th year conducting a workshop in the Eastern Sierra. Again, I’ll be joining forces with my good friend, an amazing photographer and thinker, and co-leader Guy Tal. Please consider joining us. This is a highlight of the year!. Details found HERE.
Also in October, I’ll be back in NE Ohio for our bi-annual FALL COLOR & A DAY with the AMISH PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. (including a private Amish dinner) with my Amish friends on their farm in Sugarcreek Ohio. I’ll be teaming up with my good friend, world class photographer and teacher Bill Fortney(www.billfortney.com) for a workshop you will not want to miss! I’ll be in Utah October 2013 for a late October workshop in the red rock country in and around Zion NP
I receive many requests for the link the webinar I conducted for NIK SOFTWARE entitled, “Keeping it Simple .You can view it here: ( if you purchase any or all of the NIK Software package… enter code JGRAHAM and receive a 15% discount!!! HERE is the link to the webinar
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NEW NATIONAL PARK in CALIFORNIA
Pinnacles National Monument Named National Park
Looks like we have a new National Park! See the derails HERE.
I’ll be trying to get over there before or after my DEATH VALLEY WORKSHOP in MARCH.
Off to Iceland in a few days!
About
PLEASE SCROLL DOWN… and if you like this page click the LIKE PAGE in the FACEBOOK BLOCK! THANKS — JG
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY … Quick links:
One on One Individual Workshops
JACK GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY e books – available for purchase and immediate download
IMAGES: To view many more of my images click HERE for my Gallery section on my website as well as in my 500PX gallery.
Please visit my other blog: ULTIMATE ICELAND and PHOTOGRAPH the PACIFIC NORTHWEST.
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At the 2013 NANPA Summit in Jacksonville Fl., I took part in a panel discussion, (live web streamed) held by Nik Software. ………. Here is the link: I was honored to be on a panel along with Justin Black, Lewis Kemper, Mike Moats, Piper McKay and Laurie Rubin (Nik ). Host Scott Sheppard of Nik Radio fame asked some great questions….. Check it out!!!
NIK RADIO INTERVIEW: (with my good friend Mike Moats ) –29MB–takes a minute to load!
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>> VIEW MORE IMAGES HERE: JACK on 500PX
>> Jack’s Blog added to TOP 50 PHOTO BLOG’S by “Guide to Art Schools “
>> Complete Workshop information and Fine Art Print sales are available ON MY WEBSITE
>> Also visit PhotographThePacificNorthwest for information on locations, happenings, workshops and more regarding travel and nature photography here in the beautiful Pacific Northwest.
How lucky am I ???… I have met lots of great folks in the 18+ years of leading photo workshops. Many have become my friends and many have formed friendships together, outside of photography. I currently lead my own workshops, both in groups and in a One on One environment. In addition to leading workshops, I offer my Fine Art Prints for sale on my website. I’ve had images and articles in many publications and also sell images via stock photography as well. Partial credits include Nature’s Best Photography, Outdoor Photography, California Wild, and many DNR publications, Audubon, Nature Conservancy, Chicago Wilderness, Sierra Club publications, as well as many calendars. Corporate work includes prints and stock applications for internal as well as publication use. I am also on the writing staff for Landscape Photography Magazine, an outstanding online magazine.
I’ve been fortunate to have observed and learned first hand with many of the masters of nature photography we all “in the business” have grown to admire. My “heros” are John Shaw, Art Wolfe, Galen Rowell and my dear friend Bill Fortney. Through these photographers and others I’ve taken the best of each and use this knowledge every time I am in the field photographing as well as conducting my workshops. I try to represent within my images an artful approach to what we are blessed to see in nature. My goal in photography is simply to make a better image tomorrow than I made today.
I use NIKON equipment exclusively. My workshops are sponsored by Singh Ray, Nik Software, Outdoor Photo Gear, Gura Gear Camera backpacks, Lensbabys, The Really Right Stuff, Hunt’s Photo & Video, Bob Hitchman’s Photograph America Newsletter. You can read about my field equipment HERE.
I am proud to serve on the Board of Directors of NANPA, the North American Nature Photographers Association as well as the Mono Lake Committee and SUWA (the Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance.
Please visit my other blog: ULTIMATE ICELAND and PHOTOGRAPH the PACIFIC NORTHWEST.
I can be contacted by email jack@jackgrahamphoto.com
Please do yourself a favor and visit the NIK SOFTWARE WEBSITE for demos of their products. Not long ago I was at Nik Software’s headquarters to do a webinar called “Keeping it Simple” where I processed a few images using the entire suite of products. I showed how in just a few minutes, NIK SOFTWARE made these images from camera Raw , using Adobe™ products to ready to print using NIK SOFTWARE . Click HERE to watch the webinar.
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Simply put–there is NO BETTER WAY to carry your gear. GURA GEAR was born by industry professionals dedicated to providing photographers with top of the line innovative camera bags and other gear that makes it easy to work in the field. We’ve all used the other brands over the years, but I can without any hesitation say there is nothing in the industry that can come close to the overall quality of GURA GEAR products. Gura Gear has produced products with all photographers, from amateur to professionals, in mind that make it easy to work quickly, safely allowing for well thought out organization. Nothing is compromised (their zippers are the best available!). Please take a minute and check out their website and read about their products, warranties and dedication to us Pro photographers.
How did GURA GEAR gain the reputation of being the top of the line camera bags in the industry? How did they get their start? Click HERE for some Gura Gear History….
Please consider GURA GEAR for your camera bag and gear needs. Enter the code: JGRAHAM and receive 5% off your total order. You will not be disappointed!
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Are you looking for that special photo accessory that your local camera store (or even the big name catalog guys) doesn’t carry? –LOOK NO MORE!!! … Without question … Outdoor Photo Gear offers these type of products as well as a wide selection of other quality photo gear at great prices, all while giving you the very best customer service you will find anywhere–online or in person.
The folks at
Outdoor Photo Gear are photographers and actually work the products they sell. Their shelves are always fully stocked. You can call or email them after your purchase for information about products in hand, so you can get answers to your most important questions. When you call or email OUTDOOR PHOTO GEAR they can let you know about inventory status which may be crucial with delivery of a time-sensitive order. At OUTDOOR PHOTO GEAR, they personally pick, pack, and ship their products to your door; according to your specifications. CLICK ON THE BANNER and make your purchase or just check them out. I promise, you won’t be sorry!
Look for products by Wemberley, Gitzo, Hoodman, Better Beamer and lots more … again–some of the really cool accessories not available elsewhere, all under one roof! AMAZING!!!!
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Want to save tim
e, know where and when to go? Here is a MUST HAVE! Robert Hitchman’s www.photographamerica.com . This is a MUST HAVE!!! I could go on, but just check out the site and order the Photograph America Newsletter ASAP!!!
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My most important accessory in my camera bag! Call and order yours… and tell them Jack Graham sent you! Save 10% when you do a Jack Graham Photography Workshop! Phone: 800-486-5501 www.singh-ray.com
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Do you love PANORAMA images as much as I do? I am currently using the new M1-L Modular Panoramic Tripod Head from NODAL NINJA. This, as well as all their systems solves parallax problems which are inherent when shooting images side by side!
Once a camera is properly mounted on a pano head the photographer is able to take multiple images, horizontally and/or vertically, without any subsequent parallax error. Parallax, simply put, is the apparent shifting of objects in the foreground to the background. There is a point inside every lens called the No Parallax Point (NPP). The proper technical term is “entrance pupil” but many refer the NPP as the nodal point, hence Nodal Ninja.
Eliminating parallax is key when needing to “seamlessly” stitch adjoining images together to form a single composite. From as little as 2 shots across the horizon, to dozens or hundreds of multi-image shots, photographers are able to produce stunning mosaics and full 360 x 180 degree interactive panoramas. Nodal Ninja is a valuable tool for any photographer’s camera bag. Learn more about panoramic photography.
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Need to rent a Lens or Camera for a workshop? these folks are the best and have very reasonable prices … Check them out at www.lensrentals.com
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Save 10% on all Le
nsbaby purchases by using this code: wjgraham when checking out www.lensbaby.com
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And–my good friends at Hunt’s Photo & Video—Want personalized services with NYC pricing?????–Call my friend Gary Farber–DIRECT LINE (781) 462-2332 and tell him I said HI!
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North American Nature Photographers Association (NANPA) www.nanpa.org
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